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About Marrakech…

Marrakech is possibly the most important and most visited of Morocco’s four former Imperial Cities – Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Rabat. An area that has been inhabited since Neolithic times, it has been subject to very many cultural influences. The walls and buildings that were constructed using red sandstone during the 12th century have given the city the nickname of the ‘Red City’. Marrakech is a cultural, religious and trading hub of the Marrakech-Safi region, and the market centre Jemaa el-Fna is the busiest trading square in Africa. When you visit, you quickly realise just how much of a market city it is – it is noisy, busy, crowded and chaotic! As you walk through the medina – the central market area – you’ll see that everyone is trying to sell you something: food, clothes, carpets, spices, jewellery, henna tattoos, pictures with snake-charmers, magicians and acrobats! While it can be hectic, it is also one of the most fascinating, amazing and unique places to visit!

The Souks

One of the best experiences we had when visiting the city was wandering around the local souks – the market stalls within the city where traditional craftsmen sell goods like carpets, jewellery, spices, lamps, pottery and more! Again, it can be a hectic experience! When we visited, we asked the Riad we were staying in to help us to organize a local guide to take us around the city on the first day. The guide was very helpful. He asked us what we were interested in seeing – we suggested that he just walk around with us so that we could get a ‘flavour’ of the city, so that on our next few days there we would have an idea of where everything was. We really wanted to explore the souks, but I was nervous as I had heard from friends who had visited before that they were a bit of a maze. Also, some friends who had been there really didn’t like the souks. They felt that the market traders could be rude and aggressive, and this made them feel uncomfortable. There is a lot of competition among traders and as you walk around, all of the vendors will try to get your attention. You do need to keep your wits about you (and have a bit of a sense of humour!) – Moroccan people are very friendly and welcoming, though, and as long as you are as careful as you would be in any other city, it will find it to be a unique experience!

Jemaa El-Fna

This central square is often called the ‘Heart of Marrakech’. We visited in July and, during the day when the temperature is at its highest, the square was quite quiet. At night time, though, when the temperature is more comfortable, the square changed. This is when it really came to life and the theatre began! It was full of snake-charmers, monkey-handlers, tattoo artists, musicians and other performers. There were also a lot of food stalls around and the delicious smells of exotic spices filled the air.Again, it can be hectic and crowded and is usually filled with tourists. You do need to be aware that sometimes some of the vendors and performers can ‘aggressively’ try to sell goods, pictures and henna tattoos to tourists. As you are exploring, remember that it is ok to say ‘no’ and walk away from something you don’t want to buy! That said, it is one of the most amazing places you’ll ever visit!

Moroccan Hammam

A hammam is like a steam bath or spa popular in North Africa. They are usually found near mosques or toiletry shops and can be upscale or traditional. I would advise checking in before you visit to find out about the particular etiquette of the hammam. Public hammams cost around MAD 10, while hotel or more upscale ones can cost from MAD 300-500. You can also treat yourself with a massage or other body treatments with fragrant, locally sourced body oils and lotions!

We didn’t try a hammam in Marrakech the first few days we were there, but at the end of our stay we spent a few days in a hotel outside Marrakech and there was a traditional hammam here that we visited. It was a different experience for me! I’ve had spa treatments in Ireland (where I live) and in some other countries. When the lady who was giving me the treatment asked me to remove all my clothes I was a little nervous – I realize us Irish can be a little uptight about these things, though! I was washed and scrubbed and moisturized from head to toe – even my hair got washed! I did enjoy the experience and was glad that I did it, but do check the particular etiquette beforehand!

Bahia Palace

The Bahia Palace took over fourteen years to build and has 150 rooms – however, only some of the palace is open to the public. It is definitely worth a visit and the stained-glass windows, painted tiles and ceilings and silk panels are breath-taking! There is also a beautiful courtyard garden that you can walk around. Best to arrive for your visit early or a little later in the afternoon – it will be less busy and easier to walk around if it is very hot! The entrance fee is MAD 10.

We took a trip there early enough in the morning. It wasn’t too crowded and moving around was comfortable, although it was quite hot. There is information posted around the palace, filling you in on the history and the functions of the different buildings/rooms/courtyards, etc. This was helpful as we didn’t have a guide and I must confess, I didn’t take the time to read up on anything about it before we visited so I was a bit ignorant about the significance of everything.

Jardin Majorelle

This garden is a collection of a large variety of different species of plants from all around the world and was created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle in the late 19th – early 20th century. It is a bit of an oasis away from the business of the city and provides a lot of great photo opportunities! There is a café there, also a gift/craft store and a Berber Museum which is particularly interesting. You can also purchase, as part of your entrance fee, a ticket to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum which is just around the corner. Anyone with an interest in fashion and popular culture will appreciate this. Even without a particular interest in design it is a historical journey and worth a visit.

6. Gueliz District

This is the heart of the new part of Marrakech and offers a different atmosphere to the traditional medina with a wider, more ‘French style’ street-scape (the Jardin Majorelle and YSL Museum are located here). The Theatre Royal is also located here, which hosts a variety of cultural events, concerts and dance shows. This is a popular shopping district with popular and upscale stores – an alternative to the souks!

7. Saadian Tombs

These are tombs that date back to the time of the Saadian dynasty in Morocco, the late 16th century.  They are located on the south side of the Kasbah Mosque. There is some beautiful, ancient architecture decorated with intricate, traditional tiling. It is an open-air museum and nice to walk around – there are local guides outside who will offer to give you a tour. It might be worth, in this case, paying for a guide. There is no written information inside – so while it is lovely to have a wander, if you want to know the history of the tombs a guide might be a good idea! The entry fee is MAD 10.

Places to Stay

  1. Hostels

Hostels are reasonably priced – dorm rooms start around MAD 60 per night and private rooms start around MAD 180. They usually offer free breakfast, WiFi, towels and linens. There are usually also communal spaces so that you can meet up with and talk to other travellers.

2. Hotels

Budget hotels start at around MAD 150 per night for a room that sleeps two people, with a private bathroom, WiFi and breakfast included. There are also very many higher-end places to stay, all-inclusive luxury hotels and some quite exclusive golf-resorts just outside the city. There is something to suit every budget!

3. Riads

A riad is a traditional Moroccan home that has been converted into a guest-house. They are usually arranged around a central courtyard and many of them have small pools or fountains in the centre and/or a roof terrace. They usually provide breakfast, private bathrooms, Wifi, towels, linens, etc. and are a unique experience when staying in Morocco. Some riads offer other services, e.g. cookery courses, city tour-guides, etc. and some will provide dinner in the evening on request. Like hotels, there are riads in Marrakech to suit every budget.

Where to Eat

Food can be cheap in Marrakech if you eat at the street stalls and local restaurants, especially in the main square. You can get authentic food and meals (Moroccan pancakes, pastries, pastillas, tagines and fish dishes) from street vendors from MAD 30. Café Atlas and Le Jardin provide traditional and western food that is reasonably priced and very delicious! Café Clock is a happening spot that provides good, traditional food and a variety of traditional entertainment as well (story-telling, music and dancing). Dishes start around MAD 15 and go up to around MAD 30.

Getting Around

It is very possible to walk around the medina in Marrakech but it can be confusing and, depending on the time of year, very hot! Google Maps is worth using – downloading the offline maps before travelling can be helpful, too. Maps.me can have more detail in the areas in the centre of the city and also might be worth looking into. Most cafés and restaurants have free WiFi – stopping to have a mint tea and checking your location sometimes is a good idea. Bus rides around the city cost MAD 2-4. Scooters, motorcycles and cars are available to rent – if you are brave enough! A taxi might have a fare of from MAD 7 plus about MAD 4 per km. Before getting into the taxi, either ask to use the meter or agree a price to where you want to go. A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost from MAD 100 – an airport express bus costs around MAD 30. Getting to locations outside the city is possible either with taxi, train or bus. The Supratours busses are comfortable and reasonable, and will get you to most locations.

Other Information for Travelers

1. You’ll hear many different languages in Marrakech – Arabic, Berber, French and Spanish among others! In most touristy places English is common, but it is worth knowing a little French!

2. The currency of Morocco is the dirham – one Euro will get you about MAD 10, one US dollar will get you around MAD 11. There are plenty of ATMs around, but it is worth carrying cash and having some smaller change for the markets, paying for transport and tipping. Haggling in the markets is expected!

3. Marrakech is pretty warm all year round – it can get colder at the night-time during the winter months, though (layers are good!). It can get really hot during the late afternoons in the summer. There are plenty of tourists around all year round and when walking around the medina you will see people wearing all sorts! There are some cultural differences, though, and sometimes to avoid attention loose fitting clothing that covers shoulders and knees is good – also helpful to protect against the sun!

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About Visiting Morocco With Kids…

When I talk to people about traveling to Morocco, I always get a variety of reactions. Some are intrigued by what they image as this exotic, North African location. Some have visited Morocco before, and have had the most amazing adventures there! Others are a little more apprehensive, and worry about whether it’s a safe place for a holiday – particularly visiting with kids.

If, like me, you’re looking for something a bit different for your family, a vacation that will be more of a memorable experience, not just a typical sun holiday by the pool, then Morocco is the perfect destination! It has a uniquely different culture, is only about 3 hours on a plane from most European countries and, believe it or not, is one of the safest places I have visited!

Morocco has a very family-friendly culture, and children are pretty much welcomed wherever you might venture to! Because of the warm climate, Moroccans tend to spend family time together in the evenings, so walking around the Medina after sunset you will find lots of Moroccan families with children in restaurants, cafes, exploring the souks, and enjoying the entertainment in the squares.

About When To Go With Kids…

A lot of family holidays with kids happen during the summer months of July and August when the schools are out, and many tourists do visit Morocco with their families during this period. It can get quite hot in the summer, though – up to 55 degrees! A road trip to the Atlantic Coast or locations up north at this time can be a good option, as they are a bit cooler!

Essaouira is a popular seaside destination whether you are visiting in the summer or another time, and there are many activites for kids to do here! They can try camel riding along the beach, swimming, surfing, kite-surfing, horse riding, quad biking – the list goes on! The souks here are calmer and more relaxed than the ones in Marrakech, for example, and easier to navigate (especially with younger children).

April and May are good months from a temperature point of view to visit. Ramadan sometimes falls around this time, so it’s a good idea to check this before booking. Many tourists do visit during Ramadan, but some things might be closed so just be aware of this.

September through November are also popular times to travel to Morocco, as it is not usually too hot during this time. The spring and the autumn/winter are peak tourist times, so it will be busier. It’s a bit of a trade-off, then, between the quieter summer heat, and the busier but cooler spring/autumn! If you have school-going kids, the Easter break or the Halloween break times are perfect!

About Where To Stay With Kids…

A traditional form of accommodation to stay in when visiting Morocco is a riad. This is like a guest house or hotel that is built around a central courtyard. There is often a fountain, and sometimes a pool, in the center of the courtyard, and the rooms usually face onto it. Riads are magical places to stay, and I would recommend staying in one when visiting Morocco with your family.

Any city that you’re staying in will have a wide range of riads, varying from very affordable in price to more expensive and luxurious. The rooms can be on the smaller side, however. If you have younger children, or children that are a little ‘boisterous’, be aware that noise travels because of the way the rooms are set up!

In this case, staying for a couple of nights for the experience is recommended, but you might prefer a hotel for some of the time also as, for some, they might seem more family-friendly. Your kids can enjoy the pool, and many hotels also have activities for kids and kids clubs. Most will provide shuttle buses into the Medina, too.

When we visited Morocco as a family, we stayed in a riad in Marrakech for four nights, took a road trip to the Sahara Desert for three nights, and then stayed in an all-inclusive (which was not too expensive!) for the last five nights of our Moroccan trip. This way we got to experience tradition, adventure, and some r&r all in the same holiday!

About Marrakesh With Kids…

Marrakech is a bustling city, and there are definitely lots of family-friendly activities to do here! From cultural sights like the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Toombes to wander around, to parks and gardens like the Jardin Majorelle, there are a variety of outdoor experiences for you and your kids to enjoy together.

One of the best known tourist destinations in Marrakesh are the souks – covered markets that sell everything from jewelry, spices, carpets, clothes, shoes, leather goods, and anything else you can think of really! They can be a little bit crowded and chaotic and, particularly in Marrakesh, the vendors can be quite ‘forward’ with their sales pitches!

I would recommend not bringing a buggy/stroller, but using a baby sling for an infant or toddler if you can (the streets are narrow, and the cobble stones are bumpy!). There are also lots of motor bikes, bicycles, scooters and carts busily making their way through the pedestrian walk-ways. Dress your little ones in bright colours and hold hands when walking around. They’ll love the colourful sights, lights, and finding new things here!

The central square, Djemaa El Fna, comes to life and is full of activity in the evening time when it’s nice and cool. There are musicians, snake-charmers, henna artists, food stalls, and lots of families with kids strolling around soaking in the atmosphere.

While it’s relatively safe (compared with other cities I’ve traveled to!), you do need to be mindful of pick pockets and scams, as you would in any busy place. The animal handlers and henna ladies can be a bit ‘assertive’, so you’ll need to be, too! Visiting Djemaa El Fna with your kids is an experience you’ll always remember!

About A Sahara Desert Trip With Kids…

A road trip to the Sahara Desert is one of the most amazing adventures you can take your kids on while visiting Morocco! This journey will take your family through the High Atlas Mountains, Berber villages, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and into a remote part of the desert where you’ll camel trek to a nomad campsite to spend the night glamping under the stars!

It’s a long road trip, though – it takes 9/10 hours driving from Marrakesh, if that’s your starting point! When I went with my kids, we did it over three days. We stopped in Dades Gorges for the first night, spent the second night in the Sahara, and drove back to Marrakech on day three.

My advice in hindsight would be to make the trip with your family over four or five days, as it means less extended periods on the road. There are so many family-friendly activities on this excursion that, in my opinion, a family holiday to Morocco with kids would not be complete without a trip to the desert.

There’s the stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ait Ben Haddou, where Gladiator and parts of Game of Thrones were filmed, the movie studios in Ouarzazate, hiking in the Dades Valley, and exploring the Todgha Gorges. That’s not including all of once in a lifetime activities your kids will get to do in the Sahara, like camel riding, sand boarding, and quad biking! Not to mention sleeping in a nomad camp and making music with the locals.

Final Thoughts…

Some final tips on traveling to Morocco with kids:

  • When you’re in Marrakesh or any of the other cities, food options for picky eaters will not be a problem! However, if you’re doing a guided trip to the desert, for example, you will be stopping in places with more limited menus. They usally will offer some kind of pasta dish and some kind of pizza, but you might need to be prepared with some road trip snacks, drinks, and water – just in case!
  • Bring lots of layers! Usually the weather is hot during the day, but it can get a bit cooler at night, depending on the time of year you’re traveling at. Also, you might be moving from air-conditioned vehicles into the sunshine and back again! Sunscreen and hats are a must!
  • Ten days or two weeks is a good amount of time to spend on a trip to Morocco with kids. It’s enough time that you won’t feel too rushed trying to get everything in, and you can enjoy your family adventure to the max!
  • You can make your way around Morocco by bus or train, or renting your own vehicle. I would recommend an organised guided tour to the desert, however, as it’s a long trip. This way you can relax and enjoy it, and you can let your driver know when you need to stop with your little ones.
  • While there aren’t any particular health concerns when traveling to Morocco (no more than traveling to any other country!), I would recommend purchasing health insurance if you are traveling with kids – it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Morocco is a great family travel destination, and is undoubtedly the most adventurous location to visit with kids for a trip that they will never forget!

About The 5 Best Day Trips From Marrakech…

For most people thinking about a trip to Morocco, Marrakesh is the city that comes to mind first. The Red City is one of Morocco’s four ancient Imperial Cities, and is the top destination for tourists coming to holiday in the country. Marrakech is a once in a lifetime experience in itself, and there are a huge variety of things to do here!

If you fly into the Marrakech Menara Airport, the exotic red skyline is breath-taking to behold as the plane descends onto the runway. There are the iconic cultural and historic sites to visit there such as the Koutoubia Mosque, Bahia Palace, the Saadian Toombes and the Jardin Majorelle.

Of course, most tourists are both entranced and over-whelmed by the famous souks in the city. The covered market stalls, which are over one thousand years old, are a maze of tiny walk-ways where you can find everything from pottery, jewelry, spices, leather goods, traditional carpets, and so much more!

Marrkesh is a bustling, chaotic (at times!), lively, fast-paced place to be. While it is wonderful, sometimes a trip away from the heat and the energy can be a welcome change. Here are some suggestions for 5 top-rated day trip destinations from Marrakech:

About Essaouira…

A day trip from Marrakesh to the coastal city of Essaouira will bring a bit of relief from the heat of the Red City and the hectic pace of life there. It’s about a 3 hour drive to this Portuguese Port town and, although it is a popular destination for both tourists and locals alike, it feels much more relaxed here with a bit of a chilled and ‘beachy’ vibe!

There are souks to stroll around- however, they are calmer and less intense than the ones in Marrakech. Essaouira boasts some fantastic sea-food, and there are many quaint restaurants and cafes along the sea-front that will give you the opportunity to savour some Atlantic Ocean delights!

A visit to the working port is a must, followed by a stroll along the fortified walls of the Skala where you will have the most amazing views of the crashing Atlantic waves. Why not finish your day trip here with a drink on the beach, and a sunset camel ride? A day trip to Essaouira is definitely a worth-while off the beaten track adventure from Marrakech!

About Ouarzazate and Ait Ben Haddou…

A different kind of day trip out of Marrakesh will take you in the other direction, towards the High Atlas Mountains with their glorious peaks and valleys. This tour will allow you to explore the famous Tizi n Tichka Pass, twisting roads on the edge of the mountains. The small, Berber villages you drive by will transport you back in time to the Morocco of days gone by.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ait Ben Haddou is an ancient Kasbah perched atop one of the peaks in the High Atlas range. This famous historical site was used as the back drop for many film productions such as The Mummy and Gladiator, and also was used to portray the city of Yunkai in Game Of Thrones.

Continuing with the film theme, this day trip will take you on to the city of Ouarzazate which is also known as the Gateway to the Sahara Desert. There are many cinema and studio museums here, which you’ll have the time to wander through and explore on this top-rated day trip from Marrakech!

About The Ourika Valley…

Another very popular day trip from Marrakesh with tourists also takes you into the High Atlas Mountains to explore the pristine Ourika Valley, with its clear river waters and seven waterfalls. A break from the heat of the city to this cool oasis location will allow you to see Morocco from a different perspective, and enjoy some of the natural wonders that it has to offer.

Using a private tour company for this day trip can be beneficial, as some will allow you the opportunity on the way to stop in one of the Berber villages to experience a traditional mint tea ceremony and typical breakfast with a local family. You might also get lucky and be treated to a camel ride in the mountains!

The small village of Setti-Fatma is the last stop in the valley, and from here you can set off to explore the foothills and the seven waterfalls and cascades hidden among them. Don’t forget to take your hiking boots with you on this day trip! At really only a relatively short distance from Marrakech, this nicely preserved valley is a great idea for a day trip for friends or family groups.

About The Ouzoude Falls…

A day trip from Marrakech to the Ouzoude Falls will take you inland again, this time north east to the Middle Atlas Mountains. It’s about 3 hours each way from Marrakech, so an early start is advised, as is bringing comfortable walking/hiking gear, sun screen, a hat and perhaps even a swimming costume!

The Ouzoude Falls are tall, vertical cascades that are striking in what is generally quite a dry, arid region. There are some pools of water spread out around the base of the falls and, while the water might be a bit reddish in the rainy, winter season (from the clay that makes up the surrounding landscape), they are usually cool and clear.

You will find many people taking a dip in the water here- although during the winter the water is probably a little cold! It is also possible to take a hike around the top of the falls, feed the famous Ouzoude monkeys, and take a boat trip around the foot of the cascades. This is another popular day trip from Marrakesh for tourists and locals alike.

About The Agafay Desert…

This stony desert is located about 30 km south of Marrakesh, and is a great idea for a desert day trip if your holiday does not allow time for the much longer trek to the Sahara. The Agafay Desert does not have the rolling, golden sand dunes of the Sahara but it still feels very remote and is very much a change of pace and scenery from the Red City.

Spending time in a nomadic Berber camp, lunching with traditional delicacies and mint tea, and cooling off with a swim in an incredible infinity pool are just some of the activities that you can do in this relaxing location. It is also possible to book a camel ride and get lost among the rocky dunes.

Other activities that it is possible to do here are drives and walks in the desert (exploring the foothills of Imlil, you might find some turtles and other small creatures in the rock-pools!), quad biking and buggy riding. This can be a great day trip from Marrakech for the more adventurous, and the activities are perfect for family groups!

Final Thoughts…

Marrakech is an amazing city to visit, and a definite ‘must see’ on any holiday in Morocco! However it can be hot and hectic, especially during the summer months. Any one of these 5 Best Day Trips from Marrakesh will give you a welcome breather, and will give you the opportunity to see more of wild and wonderful aspects this exotic country has to offer!

About Morocco’s Imperial Cities

The current capital of Morocco is Rabat, situated in the north of the country. This ancient city was not always the capital, however. As various dynasties rose and fell throughout the centuries, the seat of power moved between Fes, Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat.

All of these centers are now categorized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and for any traveler who has an interest in history, culture or architecture, a road trip to explore the Imperial Cities of Morocco is definitely a must!

About Fes

The oldest of the Imperial Cities is Fes – Islamic refugees from North Africa and Southern Europe were the first to settle here when the city was founded in the 9th century. Fes was the capital of the country several times, from the Idrisid Dynasty in the 9th century and until the Alaouite Dynasty which ended in 1912.

Fes is known for it’s still dynamic tannery industry, it’s stunning royal palace walls and doors, and the unique architecture of the beautiful minarets and domes found there. A view of the city-scape from the hills surrounding the city is something not to be missed!

About Marrakech

Marrakesh was first established as a settlement in 1071 and was the capital of the country during this period and again in the 16th and 17th centuries. Known as the ‘Red City’ Marrakech was, and still is, a bustling market hub for traders from Africa, Europe and the Middle East.

The ‘souks’ or markets in the Marrakesh medina are worth getting lost in, you’ll be able to find everything from traditional handicrafts (carpets, leather goods, jewelry, etc.), food, spices, clothing and furniture! Marrakech is also famous for it’s ancient historical sites, such as the Koutoubia Mosque and the Saadian Toombes.

About Meknes

Meknes was capital of Morocco for a relatively brief period, from 1672 to 1727. The sultan Ismail Ibn Sharif rebuilt and expanded the old kasbah and medina to the south, and built the walls around the city. The imposing Bab El Mansour gate, with it’s intricate decoration and huge wooden doors, is a picturesque site to behold here.

Not far from Meknes are the Roman ruins of Volubilis, which also contain evidence of the first Jewish settlers in the country, who may have arrived to escape persecution during the advent of Christianity in the Middle East.

About Rabat

Along the Atlantic Coastline, Rabat was originally designed as an Imperial City by the Alouite Sultan Muhammad Ibn Abdallah in the 18th century. However, he did not officially designate Rabat as the capital at that time, as he traveled often between Rabat, Fes and Marrakech.

Today, Rabat is Morocco’s second largest city and the administrative, financial and political centre. As well as the ancient Hassan Tower and the Mohamed V Mausoleum, the spacious tree-lined avenues and cool green areas in the city attract many visitors and tourists every year.

About an Imperial City Road Trip

For an introduction to Moroccan history, memorable shopping experiences exploring ancient souks and medinas, culinary adventures with the different tastes and spices of the cuisine of Morocco, and a tour of the magnificent landscapes of the country, an Imperial City Road Trip is a holiday that you will truly never forget!

About Jewish History in Morocco

There is a long timeline of Jewish heritage in Morocco – before the founding of Israel in 1948, there was a large population of Jews in the country (more than a quarter of a million). Experts have not been able to agree with certainty exactly when the first Jews arrived on Moroccan soil. However, the oldest Jewish community seems to date back to 361 BCE and is integrated with the indigenous Berber population in the area.

However they arrived into the country, and after many years where there were waves of departure, there is still a Jewish presence alive and well in Morocco. Although the population of Jews has dwindled somewhat, there are still many sights displaying the ways in which they intertwined with and contributed to the rich history of this North African kingdom.

About Jewish History in Morocco – Volubilis

The first stop on a journey to discover Jewish history in Morocco would be a trip to Volubilis. This is a partly excavated Berber-Roman settlement near the city of Meknes, which is thought to have developed from the 3rd century BC in this fertile, agricultural area of the country.

Fes: A Bustling Moroccan Jewish Community

In this ancient Moroccan Imperial City, the Jews were among the first to settle here at the end of the 8th century. They quickly became established in the city, and the Jewish Quarter (Al-Funduk Al-Yahudi) grew and developed. The old shop-fronts can still be seen, and though there were many periods of growth and decline within the Jewish community here, there has been a lasting impact on the character of the city.

As well as the Jewish Quarter, other popular sites to visit are the restored Jewish Synagogue, Ibn Danan, which is located in the mellah, and the tomb of Rabbi Yehouda Benatar. There is also a Jewish cemetery located in Fes. Although the Jewish population has more recently declined here, it is still an important stop on the Moroccan Jewish history tour.

Discover the Mellah in Marrakech

The Mellah, or Jewish Quarter, in Marrakech is the second oldest of its kind in the country. The first recorded Jewish presence in the city was in 1232, and many Jews re-located here after fleeing persecution in the Iberian Peninsula and other Mediterranean locations. Mellahs like this one were created to offer protection to the Jewish community.

It became an important commercial center in the city, and its walls and gates were closed at night to keep the inhabitants safe. The Jewish Quarter became over-populated within a few years, and today only has a small number of Jewish inhabitants. It was restored by King Mohamed VI in 2016, and is a popular tourist attraction in the city today.

Traces of Jewish History in Essaouira

The Atlantic Coastal town of Essaouira is another important stop on the Moroccan Jewish history tour. The population of this ancient settlement was, at one time, made up of a majority of Jews. The community here was always a very tolerant one, with Jews and Muslims living and working together peacefully. However, no Jews have lived here since the 1960’s.

The mellah in the town is, for the most part, abandoned and in ruins. However, it is still worth a visit! There are two synagogues here that have been maintained on the inside, and are open for visitors. Funding has been put in place to develop an interpretation project in the mellah, with the goal of recording and creating awareness of the peaceful, multi-denominational nature of the community in Essaouira.

Site: Mellah (The Jewish Quarter of Essaouira) Country: Morocco Caption: Road to Synagogue Haim Pinto Date: 21.01.2017 Photographer: Mr. Amine Bennour

The Museum of Moroccan Judaism in Casablanca

Another important site to consider visiting on this Jewish Heritage trip is the Museum of Moroccan Judaism in Casablanca, which is the only museum of its kind in the Arab world. The largest population of Moroccan Jews currently lives in Casablanca, with approximately 1,000 Jews residing here today.

You will be able to view here books that have been published in Hebrew, French, and Moroccan Judeo-Arabic. There is also an article on-view from a newspaper printed in 1933 with a ‘call-to-action’ for Jewish Moroccans to try to learn Darija (Moroccan Arabic), so that they might be able to communicate and integrate with their Moroccan neighbours.

The Jewish Community in Morocco Today

It is estimated that there are approximately 3,000 Jews currently living in Morocco – down from around 250,000 in the 1940’s. Although there have been dark times and differences between Muslims and Jews living in the country at different periods, Morocco is unique in the Arab world at trying to protect and safeguard Jewish heritage sites in the country.

Before the coronavirus pandemic, around 45,000 Jews would have visited Morocco and its Jewish heritage sites every year from Isreal, the United States, Canada, and many other countries. Even though the Jewish population has largely left the country, evidence of Jewish culture and history can be found all around Morocco!

About a Trip to the Saharan Steppes…

In January 2018 my daughters and I started thinking about the next trip we wanted to make. One of my daughters had just started work as a teacher and my other was studying, so we were looking at going somewhere in the summer when we would all be free. We had been to Italy before but I had always wanted to do a food tour there, so we were looking at Italian food and wine experiences. Then my eldest daughter’s friend called and recommended Morocco – she had been there the year before with her 10-year-old and loved it! She sent photos of the desert trip they went on, the camel trekking, the nomad tents and the campfire – we changed our minds and booked flights to Morocco, just like that! It just looked fun and different and a bit adventurous and not like any other experience we had been on together. Our trip was in July – we were to spend the first few days in Marrakech and then had arranged a private three day tour to the desert. the first night we were to stay in the Dades Valley and the second in tents in the Merzouga Dunes.

Marrakech – Ait Ben Haddou – Ouarzazate – Dades Valley

Our driver was to pick us up at 8am at our riad in Marrakech to begin our trip. Jean-Francois, the manager in the riad, warned us that Moroccans were not great at time-keeping and so if we were left waiting for a while we shouldn’t be too worried. We weren’t too worried, as Irish people often use times as ‘approximations’ as well! But pretty much at 8am our driver arrived and helped us with our luggage through the cobbled lane-ways to the minivan. We were excited but nervous, as we were used to making our own way around on trips and had never done a private tour before. Our driver, Ali, was relaxed and friendly and chatted easily with us. Making our way out of Marrakech towards the High Atlas Mountains, we were taken with the landscape and the scenery. The further into the mountains we drove, the more intrigued we became. Berber villages of mud houses seemed to be carved out of the hills here and there, we passed by bee hives being tended and goat and sheep-herders guiding their charges carefully along the side of the road. Ali stopped a couple of times for us to take photos, and for rest breaks and coffee!

Our first ‘proper’ stop was at the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where many films like Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven and Game of Thrones were shot. We had lunch in a local restaurant there and then Ali set us up with a guide to take us to the old Kasbah. The guides are dependent on tips, so we were advised roughly how much to pay (not much!) and we went off. We trekked across a dry riverbed to get to the walled city and then began our tour. It was hot, the worst time of the day and crowded – but so worth the visit! There were traders, carpet sellers, scarves and pottery to buy along the way. We made our way to the top and the views from there were amazing! By the time we got back to the van we were very hot and well-exercised but had thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We drove on through Ouarzazate to arrive at our hotel in the Dades Gorges where we were spending the night. The hotel was really nice and clean – it was a race to the shower! We enjoyed a tapas-style dinner on the hotel terrace that evening and slept like babies in our triple room that night! Breakfast was a traditional Moroccan buffet and we were well fed and rested when Ali came to pick us up around 9.30am for the next part of the trip.

Dades – Todgha Gorges – Merzouga Dunes (Erg Chebbi)

We began driving after having a good rest and a good breakfast and headed towards the Todgha Gorges. We stopped first to have a guided tour of the fertile oasis at Tinghir. After being met by a guide who was warm and friendly, we were led through fields irrigated by the Wadi (River) Todgha. The guide talked to us about the crops that were grown by the locals there, the types of irrigation used and the hardships faced by the farming families. Strolling along raised pathways in the fields, we were able to see farmers working and children helping! We then were brought to an ancient part of the city there, saw the Jewish quarter and got to see a local woman spinning yarn that would be used in the weaving of the beautiful traditional carpets and rugs that you see all over Morocco! There was a bit of pressure to buy a carpet before we left – we really didn’t want to, but left what we could as a tip and a ‘thank you’ for telling us all about the weaving process. Also, we wished we had brought some sweets or something nice for all of the children that we came across here. They were all very friendly and were coming to say ‘bonjour’ and talk with us (in the little French we had!) We had lunch sitting outside in a local restaurant and then walked it off in the Todgha Gorges. Ali dropped us off at one side of the gorges – limestone river canyons – and said that he could either stay there and we could just stroll around, or he could drive to the other side if we were up for a longer walk. We went for the longer walk! It was really nice to walk here – there were a lot of tourists and locals, enjoying the scenery and cooling down in the river running through the center of the valley. The air-conditioned minivan was a welcome sight at the end of our walk and we buckled in and got ready for the rest of the drive to Merzouga.

We started then the long-ish drive to Merzouga. We stopped for coffee and to stretch our legs along the way. At one of the stops, we had the opportunity to dress up in some traditional clothing and one of the young daughters of the couple who owned the dress shop offered to do some henna designs on my daughters’ hands. Ali advised us to buy some bottled water to bring to the campsite, as it would be hot and we wouldn’t have the opportunity to buy any once we were there. Approaching the desert was quite an emotional time for me – I never imagined that I would get the opportunity to see the Sahara Desert! I’ve since found out that the dunes at Merzouga are not actually the Sahara, but an area of steppes at Erg Chebbi (dunes leading into the desert). This doesn’t detract from the experience for me, though. It was a beautiful, remote, isolated landscape, the likes of which I had never seen.

We arrived at the hotel we were beginning our camel trek from – as the weather was quite hot, the camel handlers there said that they wanted to wait for a while before we set out, until the sun was not quite so intense! We sat and relaxed, had some mint tea and water, and chatted about what we expected our camping experience to be like. Ali said we could have our luggage brought to the tents, but we decided to leave it with him and just bring a few things for overnight. When it had cooled down somewhat and was now nice and ‘fresh’ (it wasn’t fresh!) we went out to the camels with the group. We mounted our noble steeds and made ready to set off! The camels were tethered together in caravans of about six and were guided by a camel handler. There were a few other guides walking along-side the caravans, just in case anyone needed anything – or fell off, I guess! It was such a unique experience – the dunes are so quiet and feel so remote. As you are moving along, the only thing you can see in any direction is sand and sky. We stopped just before sunset, and were given the opportunity to climb one of the dunes for photos and to experience a sunset like no other!

It was just getting dark as we arrived at the camp. We were shown to our tents and given a little while to settle in and freshen up before dinner. We had decided to go with the standard tents. If I was going again, I would definitely go for the luxury ones. Our tents were a good size, there was a toilet with a sink in the tent (which we weren’t expecting, in fairness!) and we each had our own bed. The luxury ones had a proper shower in them and this would have been nice. It was so hot in the tents! It was July and we were in the desert, so I guess that shouldn’t have been surprising! We freshened up as best we could and then were invited to dinner with the other campers. Dinner was fantastic – we were given a platter of different meats, vegetables, breads and dips and then plenty of fruit for dessert. After dinner, we were invited to sit around the campfire with the other campers and the camel handlers and guides for some music, dancing and a sing-song! We had a great evening, chatting to everyone and enjoying the music. There were campers of all ages – children, teens, adults and a couple travelling to celebrate their retirement! – and from all over the world. This was definitely an evening I’ll never forget!

After a night in the tent (or rather, under the stars – the tent was so hot we decided to bring our blankets outside to sleep on!) we were roused before sunrise so that we could find a good dune from which to experience dawn in the desert. This was surreal and beautiful, and I’m happy I got the chance to experience this with my daughters. We had a buffet-style breakfast and then returned to the camels to make the trek back to the hotel where Ali was waiting for us. This was the longest part of the journey – about a 10 hour drive back to Marrakech. We all napped for a bit in the van and we had a few stops for lunch, coffee and photos to break up the trip. We also stopped briefly at the Atlas Film Studios in Ouarzazate. Many films like ‘Gladiator’, ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ and ‘Game of Thrones’ were filmed in the area, and some of the sets and props used in filming are on display. To be honest, we were tired and really just wanted to get back to our hotel in Marrakech so I don’t think we really we able to appreciate this properly! For the last few days of our trip we had booked into an all-inclusive hotel, so Ali dropped us off here – we arrived at about 8pm.

The desert trip was a great experience – I’m glad we listened to my daughter’s friend and didn’t go with the Italian food and wine trip (although I’m hoping I will get to do this one day!). It was hot and there was a lot of driving, it’s not necessarily the Sahara Desert you are visiting (as it’s sometimes described as) but dunes leading up to it and I have seen people advising visitors not to go for this trip if they go to Morocco – I can understand this, too. But from our perspective it was something we had never done, it was a unique experience and it felt like we were going on an ‘adventure’ together. We still talk about it and laugh about some of the things that happened (the ‘eclectic’ music Ali played for us in the van, the funny guide we had in Tinghir, the children following us and trying to talk with us, the group of old ladies trying to walk to the top of Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah in heels and carrying umbrellas, how nice and ‘fresh’ it was in the dessert, the music and dancing around the campfire – the list goes on!) I would certainly recommend it to visitors. It might be more difficult for someone with mobility issues, or if you had very small children – but most of the companies that offer tours will work with you to address any issues and adapt the trip accordingly (for example, the company we used said that they could spread the trip over one or two more days to make the drive-times more manageable, you could opt for different types of accommodation, you can be driven in 4×4 vehicles to the camp instead of going on camels, etc…) I have gone to Morocco a few more times now and not undertaken another dessert trip – it’s definitely on the cards, though!

My Tips for a Dessert Trip

  1. There is a lot of driving involved! Bring music to listen to, something to read, cards, or some games to play in the vehicle for the trip.
  2. At all of the stops you have the opportunity to buy carpets, pottery, scarves or souvenirs – you shouldn’t feel pressure to! Also, there is usually a guide organised for you (if you want one!) and it is expected that you will tip your guide after the tour. You need cash for all of these things! There are some ATM’s along the way but we did run out of cash by the time we got to the desert camp and had nothing to give the camel handlers when they dropped us back to the hotel. I must say, they didn’t bat an eyelid or make us feel bad about this in any way but I felt bad about it. Make sure you have cash and change at the start of the journey!
  3. We traveled in July – it was hot during the day and hot at night! It is still good to wear long, loose layers as, even though we were wearing plenty of sun protection, I felt it was important to have not-so-much skin exposed to the sun! You need to have something to cover your head and plenty of water! Also, shorts are not such a good idea on a camel trek – not only because your legs are exposed to the hot sun, but chafing thighs can be a problem on the camel’s back! I believe in the winter time, while it can be nice during the day it gets quite cold at night time, so plenty of extra warm layers would be needed for sleeping in the dessert (we did not have this problem!)
  4. Maybe a silly thing but as I said before, on some of the guided trips there were local children coming to talk with us – I would have like to have had some sweets or something small to give them (perhaps not everyone would want to do this!)
  5. Our driver, Ali, did give us the opportunity to connect to WiFi by setting up a hot spot on his phone. Otherwise, there isn’t always great connectivity in hotels on this trip and there is no connectivity in the dessert (I’m sure I probably didn’t need to say that!)
  6. If I was going again (or should I say, when I go again!) I would opt for luxury camping rather than standard. There isn’t that much difference in price but there is a lot of difference in quality!
  7. And when I go again, I would extend the trip to at least a four day one to reduce the amount of driving done each day!

Have you been on a similar trip? I’d love to hear about your experiences, or of any tips or advice that you would give to travelers thinking of embarking on a Saharan Desert tour!

About Essaouria…

I was enchanted by Essaouria from the moment I arrived there. On disembarking the bus at the station, there are men with carts ready to help you bring your luggage to your accommodation if you wish. You can see one of the gates the old Medina and smell the ocean – there is a much more relaxed feeling here and you can feel it straight away. I’ve been a few times, now. The accommodation that I chose was always Airbnb type apartments. This suited me and the price was right! I was never disappointed – the best apartment even had a roof terrace with a barbeque! My daughter also returned to Morocco with her boyfriend and made a trip to Essaouria. They stayed in a riad near the Atlantic – the price was so reasonable and they really enjoyed their time there.

  1. Stroll Around the Old Medina

The old medina in Essaouria is a UNESCO World Heritage listed city, and is filled with market traders selling everything from jewellery, Moroccan rugs, leather goods, pottery, arts & crafts, traditional foods and all manner of things – just like the souks in Marrakech. However, there is a more relaxed feeling here. As you wander through the maze-like narrow streets, you can look at your leisure at the goods on offer, without feeling pressurized into buying something. There are beautiful, authentic, little cafes and eateries. With the sun shining down and the cooling Atlantic breeze, it is a pleasure to stroll around this ancient and history-filled town.

2. Visit the Harbour and Fish Market

A visit to this beautiful sea-side town would not be the same without a trip to the harbour. Here, local fishermen bring in the ‘catches of the day’ and you will not find a more varied market of seafood, including sardines, crabs and conger eels, that is fresh from the ocean. You can sample oysters from the Atlantic! Also, there are many eateries in the medina that will allow you to bring your choice of fish from the market, any vegetables that you choose from the markets and herbs and spices, and cook them for you while you wait! I had never experienced this before in any other places I had visited!

3. City Walls and Fortifications

The ancient city of Essaouria has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has always been considered one of the best harbours along the Moroccan coast. It has had Berber, Roman, Islamic, Portuguese influences and the fortress and city walls have been reconstructed many times through history. A walk along the city walls will bring you back in time. The Dutch canons along the walls that were installed in the 18th century are imposing and the views of the Atlantic Ocean from the walls are spectacular. It’s a particularly amazing place to watch the sun setting!

4. Walk Along the Strand

There are wonderful beaches in Essaouria that attract many visitors. There is a board-walk that goes from the old medina all the way to the newer part of the city – lovely to do in the morning or in the evening when the sun is not so high! There are bars and restaurants along the way, some traders and henna artists and you can even grab a taste of some pomegranate or sugar cane juice! In the evening there are often locals playing football and basketball on the courts there. The last time I visited there were even some young people taking part in a gymnastics competition on the sand. This is a great place just to relax and unwind and feel the rigid routines of life wash away with the waves of the ocean!

5. Camel Trekking/Horse Riding on the Beach at Sunset

You will find camels pretty much every where you visit in Morocco. On the way into Essaouria there is a stop with a panoramic view with some camels there to greet you! Along the beach, nearer to the newer part of the city, there are also handlers there with camels that are popular with visitors. Camel trekking in the desert is an amazing experience, but if you don’t have the time to do this on your visit to Morocco a camel ride at sunset along the beach in Essaouria is not a bad second! There are also handlers with horses there if you are interested in horse-riding – a different way for you to explore the coast!

6. Surfing/Kite-Surfing

Morocco is a popular spot for surfers, as it is close to Europe and the weather is good for most of the year. October to April is the best time as the coast receives an abundance of swell during these months. The harbour in Essaouria is particularly good for beginners – there are a number of surf schools there that provide equipment and lessons for those looking to learn or to try surfing out for the first time! The waves are usually best during the mornings and this is often a quiet time on the beach. Kite-surfing and wind-surfing are more popular in the afternoon as the wind generally gets stronger at this time. If you walk along the beach, you will come across kite-surfing and wind-surfing instructors who also offer equipment and instruction.

7. Quad Tours/Bicycle Tours on the Beach

Another exciting way of seeing the coastline in this area is to do a Quad Tour or Bicycle Tour along the beach. A little bit outside of the city, there is the possibility to book a guided tour along the coast on quads or bikes. This is an exciting activity for groups or for families – a fun and active way of seeing everything that this part of the Moroccan Atlantic Coastline has to offer!

8. Just Outside Essaouria (Sidi Kaouki & Safi – Surfing and More Secluded Beaches)

Located just north of Essaouria is the town of Safi. Here there is a bigger beach break with rocky slabs – it offers powerful and curly waves. Sidi Kaouki is also a popular spot for surfers and there are some more secluded beaches to be found here, too. Also great spots for watching the sun setting!

Exploring Morocco!

I am an avid traveler from Ireland – I’ve been lucky enough to be able to visit many places over the years! After a trip to Morocco in 2018, I became enchanted by the culture and the ‘mystery’ of this beautiful country that was not like anywhere I had ever been before…

There is such diversity in this North African country and even though I have traveled there a few times now, I still feel like there is so much more to discover! I have rarely returned to a country that I have visited but something about Morocco keeps calling me back – I love the contrast between the chaos and noise of the cities and markets, and the serenity of the mountains and deserts and beaches. When I am not there I miss the sound of the call to prayer, the warmth of the sun on my shoulders (even when I’ve been there in the winter!) and the smells of cooking tagines and barbecues! I’m already thinking about my next trip…